By
Lu Chang
October
12, 2012
 |
A Starbucks sign is seen in
Qianmen, Beijing.
The increasing interest of the Chinese consumers for coffee
has created huge opportunities for coffee chains and
equipment makers. Jason Lee
/ Reuters
|
At home
and in cafes, China is waking up and smelling the coffee
When
Diego Panucci left home for his first trip to China in 2000, there was one very
important thing he forgot in his weeks of preparation - his coffee maker. The
young Italian, who came to study Chinese, was facing a year without caffeine as
precious few coffee shops existed in China back then, when the growing middle
classes had yet to begin developing a taste for arabica and robusta beans.
"It
was really killing me, and when I told the taxi driver to find a cafe, he
didn't have the faintest idea what I was talking about," says Panucci, who
can't begin a day without having his espresso. "I found instant coffee
instead. It wasn't espresso but it was better than nothing."
But
more than a decade later, with the strong forces of international companies
such as Starbucks, Costa Coffee and Nestle laying the groundwork, change is
brewing in China.
And
Panucci no longer frets about his caffeine hits when he frequently visits the
country through his job in event management.
From
the proliferating coffee shops in the big cities to the coffee machines slowly
infiltrating households, the home of tea is rapidly giving way to java, mocha,
latte and the like.
In
2010, China's coffee consumption was estimated to be 25,000 tons, compared with
more than one million tons of tea. But analysts from Barclays Capital forecast
that the figure will grow by an average rate of almost 40 percent a year from
2011 to 2015.
"Currently
the average coffee consumption in China stands at a mere three cups per person
per year, while that figure rises to 240 cups for the world's average,"
says Ji Ming, chief of the Beijing Coffee Industry Association.
"Therefore, there's a lot of growth potential in China's coffee
market."
Analysts
cite Japan where love of tea runs just as deep as in China, but with promotion
of coffee, its per capita annual coffee consumption has already hit 300 cups,
well above the global average.
"With
the current growth rate, it is only a matter of time before China zooms past
Japan as the second-largest coffee consumer in the world," Ji says.
However,
compared with Japan, coffee drinking in China is more about seeking a Western
lifestyle or is a social trend for many young urbanites, rather than a habit.
"In
China, coffee is more like a symbol of Western affluence, friendship and a
bridge in connecting the people," says Raymond Tong, CEO of Pacific
Coffee, the second-largest coffee chain in Hong Kong after Starbucks, and now
owned by the State-backed China Resources Vanguard.
"More
and more people are embracing the practice of meeting over coffee, and group
networking at coffee shops to discuss business or simply for pleasure," he
says.
Huang
Long, the 38-year-old owner of an IT company in Beijing, says he doesn't drink
coffee when he visits a coffee shop as he hasn't got used to its bitterness.
But he comes to Starbucks at least four times a week to surf the Internet or
meet with friends.
"I
like the environment of the coffee house," he says. "It is a relaxing
place to chat, hang out, and even to work.
"Besides,
sitting around a coffee house with a mug in hand is just a new lifestyle
affectation."
Sentiments
like these are exactly what coffee promoters like to hear, and explain why a
wide array of companies are speeding up expansion to win a decent slice of
China's coffee pie.
Currently,
Seattle-based Starbucks operates more than 650 stores across 51 Chinese cities
and takes the lion's share in the market of specialty coffee shops - more than
half in terms of revenue, according to a Euromonitor research report in 2011 -
and it plans to increase the number to 1,500 stores, across more than 70 cities
and triple the number of employees to 30,000 by 2015.
"We
have an extremely ambitious development plan in China," says Belinda Wong,
president of Starbucks China. "China has been designated as our second
home market outside of the United States. We believe China will become our
largest market outside of the US by 2014."
As a
latecomer to China's market, Pacific Coffee has made up ground quickly with an
even more aggressive expansion plan, after selling 80 percent of its stake to
CRV, one of China's largest retail chain enterprises.
The
company now has about 100 stores in China and plans to have more than 1,000
within the next five to eight years.
"Starbucks
has pioneered the development of the American-style coffee chains in China.
Costa Coffee serves coffee in a typical European style, but as a Hong
Kong-based coffee house, we are more localized, a combination of both western
and Chinese elements, with red cozy sofas, red blooming-lotus chandeliers and
dark wood decoration," says Tong from Pacific Coffee.
To add
more Chinese flavor, Tong says, Pacific has introduced Huadiao mocha, which
combines a Chinese yellow wine with a mocha blend, and Erguotou chillino, iced
coffee mixed with white spirits that has an alcohol level of more than 50
percent.
"We
don't have a rigid format and try to be a bit more flexible and creative in our
products to suit the Chinese taste," he says.
London-based
research firm Euromonitor International estimates the total turnover of China's
market for coffee shops hit 3.5 billion yuan last year and projects it will
triple to about 10 billion yuan by 2016.
However,
expanding in China means reaching out beyond the country's big cities, and the
hefty cost of a cup of coffee may deter customers in third or fourth-tier
cities.
"Starbucks
itself has been grappling with the high price of coffee, which is roughly in
line with that in the United States," says Stacy Wan, an analyst with
Euromonitor. "Some customers might shy away from it.
"But
the top concern for most coffee shops remains rising operation costs.
Skyrocketing rent and labor costs may keep those big coffee chains from
protecting margins."
The
fierce competition among coffee shops has also created a demand for thousands
of baristas, resulting in the rise of specialist training schools.
Qi
Ming, a 33-year-old coffee bar owner and principal of Blend Coffee College in
Beijing, says his organization has trained hundreds of baristas in the past
year for the likes of Starbucks and Costa Coffee .
"Owning
a coffee shop is not only an attractive business proposition, but also a dream
for many Chinese urbanites, who expect to be educated on how to be a
professional barista and how to run a coffee shop," he says. "To
cater to them, we provide a series of bean-to-cup classes and cafe management
courses."
Qi
says, as a member of the Specialty Coffee Association of Europe and the US, the
college hopes to double the number of barista students from 400 to 800 next
year.
While
coffee shops are pricey options for some Chinese, and instant coffee is
generally the order of the day, coffee machines are becoming an increasing
presence in Chinese kitchens.
"Many
educated Chinese consumers and those who are well-traveled, now have
sophisticated tastes," says Mark Sng, Electrolux's trade marketing manager
for Asia-Pacific, Middle East and Africa. "They do not drink instant
coffee or packaged coffee beverages but now purchase single-origin coffee beans
or sophisticated flavored coffee, and choose to brew their own coffee."
The
Swedish company offers a wide range of products costing from 208 yuan ($33, 26
euros) for an automatic drip coffee machine to 2,188 yuan for an Italian-style
semi-automatic espresso machine.
Since
Electrolux coffee machines became available in China in 2006, annual sales have
jumped from 10,000 to 300,000 in 2011.
"With
Chinese consumers becoming more sophisticated and embracing the taste of
freshly brewed coffee, we have seen significant growth in the past five
years," says Kelvin Yuen, commercial director of Electrolux (China) home
appliances Co Ltd.
Currently,
China's coffee machine market is dominated by Electrolux and Dutch group
Philips Electronics selling filter-drip machines, while premium-priced semi and
fully automatic machines, such as Nestle's Nespresso or from Gaggia in Italy,
remain a niche market.
But
Yang Haocheng, executive vice-president of Gaggia China in Shanghai, believes
that will change.
"Although
many Chinese are still unfamiliar with automatic coffee machines, they're
learning very fast," he says. "There's a ravenous thirst for coffee
that tastes as good at home as outside, and those kinds of machines will
eventually become common in homes."
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lvchang@chinadaily.com.cn