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Fair trade purists cry foul at including big farms


Associated Press

May 31, 2012

After a quarter-century working to improve the lives of farmers in places like Latin America and Africa, the fair trade movement is at a crossroads.

Will it expand its mission to include bigger players and a larger share of the markets in coffee, cocoa, bananas and other products? Or will it stay with its original purpose, empowering small farmers, often working through cooperatives, with higher prices for their crops and more clout in setting international trade practices?

In Vermont, which has long prided itself on being home to companies that pursue both profits and a social mission, the question gained broad notice on May 20, when the fair trade policies of Waterbury-based Green Mountain Coffee Roasters were targeted in a full-page ad in The Burlington Free Press.

Bridgewater, Mass.-based Equal Exchange Inc., which markets fair trade coffee, chocolate and other products, called on Green Mountain to sever relations with Oakland, Calif.-based Fair Trade USA, the national leader in certifying products as eligible for the fair trade label.

So far in the history of the movement, fair trade "has exceeded all expectations for success," the Equal Exchange ad said. "More small farmers have market access, improved living standards, and have achieved greater economic control and political power."

Fair Trade USA "changed the rules to allow large-scale plantations and private estates into the (fair trade) coffee system," the Equal Exchange ad said, "potentially putting at risk the very survival of the farmer cooperatives."
FTUSA has defended the changes, which were announced last year and implemented in January.

"We believe the future of Fair Trade lies in a more inclusive approach that supports everyone in the global coffee supply chain that is willing to commit to a journey of sustainability, responsibility, empowerment and impact," the organization says on its website.

The fair trade movement dates to the 1940s, when a Pennsylvania Mennonite named Edna Ruth Byler traveled to Puerto Rico and was shocked by the poverty. She set up a business to sell the needlecrafts of female artisans she met on the trip; it later grew into the nonprofit retailer Ten Thousand Villages.

The movement began to blossom in Europe in the 1980s and since then has gone global, with coffee its leading commodity.

Companies looking to affix a fair trade label to their products go to an independent third party, such as FTUSA or Fairtrade International, to get certification that their products are coming from sources that meet certain standards.


Fairtrade International, based in Bonn, Germany, with affiliates in about two dozen countries, has standards for the sort of "small producer organization" preferred by companies like Equal Exchange. Among them: "Democracy. Profits should be equally distributed among the producers. All members have a voice and vote in the decision-making process of the organization."

The results, say fair trade advocates, are improved conditions for farmers, as well as a way for consumers to see by the label on a chocolate bar or bag of coffee beans that their purchase is contributing to that improvement.
Under fair trade rules, farmers get a $1.40 per pound "floor price" for coffee — a minimum maintained even if commodity markets go lower; a 20-cents-per-pound "social premium," which pays for communal benefits like health clinics or schools; and an extra 30-cent premium if the coffee is organic.

If large plantations are allowed into the fair trade system, critics say, they could become eligible for premiums they don't need to be profitable. There's also widespread concern that the small farmer cooperatives could be squeezed out.

The concern is that "large companies will use the fair trade seal to do what they call 'fair-wash,' to get the halo effect and perhaps confuse consumers about their overall practices," said Daniel Jaffee, an assistant professor of sociology at Washington State University who has studied the movement.

In some ways, the fair trade debate is reminiscent of previous quarrels over what counts as organic. Consumers often are willing to pay more for products many see as healthier or grown in a more ethical fashion; more companies want to grab a share of that market and, when they start to do so, raise questions about whether standards are being diluted.

FTUSA has split from Fairtrade International.

Officials at both Green Mountain and Seattle-based Starbucks, the two largest marketers of fair trade coffee in the United States, said they're staying with FTUSA for now, waiting to see how its push to broaden the market works out and, they insisted, not slackening in the efforts to ensure their products are ethically sourced.

"We're engaging with everybody and we're really trying to figure this out," said Ed Canty, a coffee buyer with Green Mountain. He said the company wants very much to protect small farmers.

Ben Packard, Starbucks' vice president for global responsibility, said his company, like Green Mountain, is pushing the fair trade agenda on several fronts. "We are waiting to see what the implications of these different schemes on the marketplace are going to mean," he said.

Separately, Starbucks is continuing to pursue a certification system it set up, along with the nonprofit Conservation International, called Coffee and Farmer Equity, or C.A.F.E. Practices, Packard said.

Requirements would include transparency. Suppliers must tell Starbucks how much money is going to farmers and provide humane working conditions and sound environmental practices.

The rift in the fair trade movement has been resonating in coffee-producing countries.

Jeronimo Pruijn, a leader of the Latin American and Caribbean Network of Small Fair Trade Producers, said a key to the movement has been democratic control of cooperatives by farmers themselves.

He and other critics of FTUSA's decision to begin labeling products from large plantations as fair trade said the group did little or nothing to consult the farmers likely most affected by its decision.

"A private owned company can by no means be compared with a collectively owned coop or association," Pruijn said in an email from Mexico City. "Different values, different decision-making processes and different costs are involved which make these two models to be incompatible within (one) certification system and promotion strategy."

FTUSA President and CEO Paul Rice said in a recent interview that he will continue to push to make fair trade a bigger feature of Americans' shopping experience, by increasing the numbers of consumers who shop for fair trade products, as well as the farmers included in the supply chain.

Only about 10 percent of the world's coffee growers are in farmer cooperatives, Rice said, adding, "We believe we can reach the other 90 percent."
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Related:



Green Mountain Coffee challenged on fair trade label


May 21, 2012 

MONTPELIER — Two stalwarts in the fair-trade coffee movement are at odds over a move by a national certifying organization to expand beyond small, farmer-owned cooperatives and allow larger growers to sell their product with a fair trade label.

Equal Exchange in West Bridgewater, Mass., took out a full-page ad Sunday in The Burlington Free Press calling on Waterbury-based Green Mountain Coffee Roasters to sever relations with Fair Trade USA.

Equal Exchange criticized Fair Trade USA for leaving an international umbrella group devoted to fair trade and for inviting larger coffee plantations into the fair trade fold.

“With this move, they threaten to reverse decades of hard-won gains while potentially putting at risk the very survival of the farmer cooperatives,” it said.

FTUSA remains the dominant player in the U.S. in affixing a label to products as a signal to socially conscious consumers that the producers of coffee and other products grown in developing countries are being paid a fair price. Farmers get a $1.40 per pound “floor price” — a minimum maintained even if commodity markets go lower; a 20-cents-per-pound “social premium,” which pays for communal benefits such as health clinics or schools, and an extra 30 cent premium if the coffee is organic.

FTUSA President and CEO Paul Rice said expanding the market for fair trade products will help all farmers. He cited the case of an estate in Brazil that recently began using the fair trade label on coffee it sells to the Whole Foods chain for its Allegro brand. The Fair trade coffee that carries the “social premium” of 20 cents a pound could now go both to the estate and to small farmers that also provide coffee for Allegro.

Workers on the estate voted to put the roughly $15,000 they earned from the premium toward eye exams and glasses for those among their number who needed them.

“The notion that co-ops should have exclusive access to our markets is just wrongheaded from a marketing perspective,” Rice said.

Rodney North, spokesman for Equal Exchange, was not impressed with the Allegro example. He argued that new sales of that brand to “committed Fair Trade shoppers” merely would take market share away from the co-ops where their previous coffee was coming from.

The fair trade movement started about a quarter century ago as a way to boost the fortunes of poor farmers in developing countries by getting them better prices for the crops they produce. While coffee has been dominant in a market that saw $1.3 billion of fair trade product sales in the United States in 2010, the field has grown to include cocoa, bananas and other crops.

At Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, officials said they want to continue to support the small farmer cooperatives that have formed the backbone of the fair trade movement to date, as well as see whether Fair Trade USA can expand the concept to encompass a broader swath of the coffee supply chain.

Ed Canty, a certified coffee buyer for Green Mountain who travels extensively in coffee producing countries, said what has worked for the farmers who belong to cooperatives should have a similar effect of improving the lives of farmworkers on coffee plantations.

“Why can’t these workers, who are some of the poorest of the poor, in some of these estates be involved as well?” he asked in an interview Monday from the company’s headquarters in Waterbury.

As it announced new policies on a pilot basis last fall, Fair Trade USA split from an international umbrella organization, Fairtrade International. The changes prompted Equal Exchange, which also imports chocolate, tea and bananas on a fair-trade basis, to split from Fair Trade USA and push for other companies, including Green Mountain, to do the same.

Equal Exchange praised Green Mountain for its past work with the farmer cooperatives, but questioned whether the company understood the possible ramifications of Fair Trade USA’s moves.

“We think that they don’t fully grasp how these changes by Fair Trade USA could undo the good work that Green Mountain has been supporting,” North said Monday.

North said Equal Exchange decided to buy the newspaper ad after talks between its executives and Green Mountain’s had not produced results.

“It was clear there was quite a gap between us and we would need to do something more dramatic,” he said.

Canty said the similarities between the factions in the fair trade movement still outweigh the differences, and that his biggest worry is that the rift could cause harm to the principle of fair trade overall.

“It’s really splitting hairs. I think everybody involved in this discussion is doing good,” Canty said. “I’m hoping the consumer sees that at the end of the day, but it’s a really hard message.”



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